TAGS: ANTIOXIDANTS/HERBAL FORMULAS | DERMATOLOGY
Eye Crème made sweet lupine protein and licorice
Although the ingredient names appear as simple botanicals, the form of delivery is specifically targeted and proven to achieve desired results for the eye area. The areas addressed with the use of these particular ingredients include:
- Maintenance of the structure of the skin by both preventing degradation and promoting firming.
- Providing strong antioxidant protection stimulating the body’s natural defense mechanisms.
- Delivering moisture topically and stimulating the skin’s natural moisture reservoirs to hold more water.
Moisture retention is a key element in the maintenance of the skin. Toneless skin is the result of:
- distruption of the collagen fiber network;
- enzyme-mediated breakdown of elastin;
- free radical-mediated damage to fibroblasts: synthesis of the dermal matrix
The result is loss of skin tone and firmness and dehydration leading to the development of wrinkles and crow’s feet.
TABLE 1: Key agents in Eye Crème.
The preservative system used in this formula is a combination of aspen bark and p-anisic acid (derived from basil). The p-anisic acid is effective against mold and yeast microorganisms. This combination used in other emulsions at the same percentages has shown two-day kill rates for all microorganisms used in the inoculations. Rosemary CO2 extract works as an antioxidant to protect the vegetable oils and waxes. The extract contains .25% diterpenes.
The actives mentioned have been used within supplier-recommended ranges and at the higher end where the testing and evaluations have suggested they are effective in achieving the stated results. As with all new combinations of ingredients, the results may vary for specific ingredients.
Boosts the expression of structural proteins, stimulates the synthesis of the major lipids in the intracellular spaces of the Stratum corneum (ceramides, cholesterol, cholesterol sulphate and cerebrosides). It penetrates down to the basal layers of the epidermis where is reinforces the natural restructuring systems. It goes even further to stimulate the cellular activity and revitalize keratinocyte differentiation. It thus ensures the renewal of the Stratum corneum.
Alfalfa seed extract:
Inhibits the activity of angiotensin converting enzyme (ACE), involved in the regulation of the antagonist vasoconstriction/vasodilation systems that control the flow of lymph. It thus favors the elimination
of excess interstitial fluid and reduces edema. . It also limits slackening of the skin by stimulating the synthesis of collagen 1, making skin tissue denser, preserving the integrity of the fiber matrix architecture.
Myrtle leaf extract:
Limits aging induced by oxidative stress. Rich in phenolic compounds, it reinforces protection of the skin by stimulating natural antioxidant defenses and by neutralizing chemically induced free radicals. It reinforces natural antioxidant defenses by restoring cellular glutathione levels, trapping free radicals and chelating iron. It protects fibroblasts and keratinocytes from chemical aggression by HX-XO (hypoxanthine-xanthine oxidase). It limits formation of lipoperoxides in the skin.
Pine bark extract:
From Pinus pinaster, the Mediterranean pine also known as the maritime pine is a powerful anti-free radical agent/antioxidant. The pine tree is forced to protect itself from extreme UV exposure, salt, high temperatures and harsh winds. The tree creates, within its bark, its own natural defenses enabling its survival in a climate where most other plants struggle to thrive. The extract is a form which harnesses this powerful natural defense which fights the degenerative processes while stimulating the biosynthesis and regenerative processes of skin tissue.
Is a botanically derived (potato) amino acid which “wakes cells up” and promotes interactions between fibroblasts and the dermal matrix, thereby stimulating remodeling and contraction of collagen fibers. The result is that skin tissue is strengthened and tone is restored. It inhibits the over-production of elastase enzymes and protects fibers thereby restoring the elasticity of the skin preventing wrinkles. It also works to reduce free radicals.
Is extracted from licorice roots. It is a natural anti-inflammatory which plays an important role in treating sensitive skin. It has been tested in vitro to demonstrate anti-inflammatory effects, anti-hyaluronidase activity, UV-erythema reduction, inhibition of histamine release, and effect on arachidonic cascade. The anti-inflammatory ingredients are considered so important in products, especially for treating the delicate eye area, that they have been termed the “fourth phase” in Japanese emulsions.
Is commonly known as sea fennel or samphire (from St. Peter, the patron saint of fishermen). It is a plant that grows on the rocky coastal cliffs of the North Atlantic British Isles. The extract is produced by carbon dioxide extraction which is a completely clean, environmentally-sound method yielding a potent active. The extract works much the same way as retinoids but unlike retinoids, not only does not induce Interleukin 1 release (an inflammatory mediator), but stimulates the antagonist receptor (IL-1RA) and acts as an anti-inflammatory. The extract is rich in phytosterols. Retinoids are known to thin the cornified layer (keratinocyte action; reduction of expression of cytokeratines) and to stimulate the cell renewal, provoking an increase in the thickness of the skin. The samphire extract tested at 1% as it occurs in this formula, increases the production of CRABPs 11 and decreases the synthesis of cytokeratines CK1, CK6, and CK10, as retinol does. This was confirmed by human reconstructed epidermis. Dermosomes, which contain protein, bridge the keratinocytes. Retinoids weaken this bridge by reducing protein synthesis. The samphire has the same effect. It inhibits the enzyme transglutaminase-1 which catalyzes the linkage between the different link proteins. Tested at 1% on the skin it was shown to reduce the number of wrinkles by 23% in 28 days.
Use twice daily, or as directed by your dermatologist.
This product was developed for NAP in 2017.